Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Trip to Jordan and Lebanon 2012

On December 12 we took Royal Jordanian flight 264 from Chicago O'Hare airport to Amman, Jordan. We departed O'Hare at 9:30 PM (Wednesday) and arrived 12 hours later at 6:00 PM (Thursday Jordanian time). Our Daughter Lori and her husband Brian and our Grandson Tanner were to meet us there as they flew in from Beirut, Lebanon so we could spend 4 days visiting Jordan before flying to their home in Beirut, Lebanon. Come along with us as we explored these two countries.

An overview of our journeys in Jordan. We landed at Amman on Thursday, stayed in Madaba Thursday night, drove to Mount Nebo, then on to Brian's project, then down to dead sea. From dead sea we drove to Petra and stayed 2 nights (Friday & Saturday) before driving back to Madaba on Sunday afternoon. Monday we visited the church in Amman and a Jordanian family Brian is friends with, did some sightseeing aand shopping  before flying to Lebanon on Tuesday morning.

The Jordanian Dinar is worth about $1.41 USD so this 50 Dinar bill would be worth about $70.43 USD. This side is in Arabic (O = 5 and * = 0)


The other side is in English

This was our view out of the hotel Mariam in city of Madaba, Jordan. It is about 15 miles South of Amman.
Our Grandson Tanner in typical headdress with Madaba in background.
 Tanner insisted that Grandpa should try it on. Would be good if it was sunny and hot but this is winter in Jordan so temperatures were in 60's and low 50's at night.
 Notice roofs all have water tanks on them. Water is trucked in so it's use is limited.

 Almost all the homes have concrete or stone walls around them. Since wood is scarce you don't find it as structural materials but mainly as trim, cabinets, etc. Floors and walls almost exclusively ceramic or marble tile.

 After enjoying a nice continental breakfast on the top floor of the hotel we were ready to begin our exploration of Jordan.

 Our first stop was Mount Nebo. For an understanding of the significance of this site read Deuteronomy 32: 49 - 50 as it was on this mountain that Moses was allowed to look in to the promised land and where he was too die.
 Let these feet do the walking!! You just sit back and enjoy the scenery
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 Ever wonder what the stone that they rolled to close off the tomb where Jesus was laid was like. This is a stone most likely very similar to the one used for Jesus tomb.

 It was about 18 inches thick.
 This is a depiction of what structures were once at the site. They are currently rebuilding the Catholic church at the site.
 Church restoration.
 Couple of pilgrims had to climb tree to find rest of group.
 In Numbers 21: 8 & 9 we read where Moses was instructed to make a fiery serpent and set it on a pole so that whoever was bitten by the serpents could look at the fiery serpent on the pole and they would not die. This is depicting that biblical event.
Imagine that you are Moses standing there on Mount Nebo. The millions of His people are spread out over the Jordan valley waiting to enter the Promised land. This is the view you would see as you moved from right to left down the Jordan valley
Looking NW towards Nablus, Palestine (40 miles) which is the biblical city of Shechem and Lake Tiberias (50 miles) which is biblical Sea of Galilee and is located in Israel..
Jericho is about 16 miles to NW and is the city where the walls came crashing down. It is under Palestinian rule and is believed to be the oldest inhabited city in the world.
A little towards the South but still looking NW towards the city of Ramallah, Palestine.
Looking almost due West towards Jerusalem now capital city of Israel. It is only 28 miles from Mount Nebo.
Looking SW towards Bethlehem, now a Palestinian city in West Bank. It is about 30 miles from Mount Nebo.
Herodium is located in West Bank but maintained by Israel. Believed to be burial site of Herod the Great. It is 28 miles from Mount Nebo
The Dead Sea would be off to the left at the end of the Jordan valley and Hebron is about 40 miles to the SW of Mount Nebo. The Jordan river is not visible since it has very little water flowing down it. Much of the water is being taken out for irrigation and thus the dead sea is slowly disappearing.
This is the road leading down from Mount Nebo towards the Jordan Valley. Perhaps Moses walked along these same ridges as he climbed up to look into the promised land.
 Leaving the Mount Nebo site.
Ever present military/police. Leaving this area we came to a checkpoint where they asked to see our passports.Kind of unsettling to have a humvee with roof mounted machine gun standing by should you try running away from the inspection.
A short distance from the site memorialized as Mount Nebo is an area where many believe Moses would have actually climbed up to. One can see the memorialized Mount Nebo in the distance but the grade is much less steep coming up to this point so maybe Moses took the easier route!!
Below Mount Nebo was a Bedouin encampment. The Bedouin are predominantly Arabian desert-dwelling peoples divided into tribes or clans and found throughout the Middle East.
We left Mount Nebo and drove towards the Jordan river to the town of  Shouneh to see the mural Brian directed. It was good to see that it was not being destroyed after several years have gone by. As we were driving through the small town on our way out a local young fellow saw Brian and yelled out "Mr. Brian". So of course we had to stop so Brian could greet him. He had worked with the project and recognized Brian even after several years had past.
 The community is installing artificial grass etc. to make soccer (Opps football there) fields so the young people have a place to play.
 A couple local boys were sitting on swings and enjoyed showing us around. They are very photogenic and posed here with Tanner. People of Jordan were very friendly.
After leaving the project we headed South towards the Dead Sea. This is looking across to Israel.
Looking over towards Israel.

 There are several fresh water pools one can go into after being in the salt water but it is winter there and the pools were not heated so we opted for the showers which turned out to be cold water also.
The experience?? Well you couldn't sink but it was also very hard to get up as your legs didn't want to go down. Kinda had to roll over and flop around!! Your skin felt like someone had rubbed olive oil all over you as it was very slippery. Didn't have any open cuts but they say if you do it stings when exposed to the water.
The group enjoying the water. Guess who is taking the pictures?? The only good bodies of water to this Canadian are those you can walk or skate on.
After lunch we headed South from the Dead Sea towards an area where tomatoes are grown. Along the way we met these small trucks loaded with tomatoes. Almost 90% of them were Toyota trucks
We then headed for Petra but had to cross these mountains to pick up the Desert highway that runs from Amman South to the Red Sea. Here are more Bedouins camped alongside the road.


 This is a fortress built by the Crusaders.
 The way speed is contolled in both Jordan and Lebanon is by speed bumps. You could be travelling along and all of a sudden you would see the sign for speed bump ahead. You slowed down of course,.
Took this picture of a typical house in Jordan. Many of them have the support posts extended above the current floor as when a family member gets married they need to add another floor for them. Families stay together.
We arrived at our hotel in Petra on Friday evening.
The cost for the two nights came to 70.00 Dinar or $98.00 USD since it is off season.
Sabbath morning I heard hoof beats outside our window and saw these two riders going down the street.
 On Sabbath we decided to go to Little Petra since there is no entrance fee and is still a very scenic area. This is looking towards the main  part of the park with these caves carved into the rock.
 This rock formation was right beside the road so we stopped for some pictures. Kinda looks like an elephant.
Grandma, Lori, Brain and Tanner.
The Government has tried to move the Bedouins out of the Park by building a town where they can live in stone constructed homes. Many Bedouins however still live in the Park.
A common sight in the rocks are these goats. Not sure what they eat or drink but seem to survive just fine.

At the entrance to Little Petra is this Bedouin family's camp. For a fee they would show you through it. Can't really blame them for wanting to raise some cash as it is a very hard way of life.
The following are some of the sights one sees as they walk back into Little Petra




On the inside looking out.




This was as far as we went into the Park. At this spot there was a Bedouin lady selling trinkets etc. and of course Brian began talking with her. Came to find out that she was from Denmark or Norway and had converted to Islam and married a young Bedouin. She asked us where we were going next and when we told her into the Park she gave us the phone number of her husband who could guide us in the back way so instead of climbing the 800 steps up to the temple we would be able to come in from the back way and still see everything as we went down and out of the Park. Sounded good to us so Brian called and arranged a guided tour for Sunday morning. Couldn't take a picture of the young lady because strict Islamic women don't want their pictures taken.
 So this is back to the entrance to Little Petra and the spot we were to meet our guide the next morning
 Saturday evening we ate at the Red Cave restaurant in Petra. Food was good but company better.
After dinner Brian treated us to a ice cream treat at a very expensive hotel in Petra. 
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Well Sunday morning and 1/2 hour late our tour bus arrived. Yup that is to be our mode of transportation into the back country of Petra. The ladies sat in front with the guide while us gentlemen rode in the back. It was about 45 - 50 that morning so it was kind of cool. The guide smoked and so I was just as happy riding in back.
After about a 20 minute ride we reached the end of the "road" and off we set on a very interesting trek.
The guide (his name was Awad) led the way and as he walked along once in a while you could hear him softly chanting something. Maybe he was praying to Allah that he could get these crazy tourists safely through the mountain trail.


After about a 1/2 hour of hiking our guide stopped and built a small fire to warm us.
Felt so good.





 Some areas we needed a hand to climb up the trail.

 A friend of our guide was suppose to meet us at the trail head but was late. He finally caught up to us along with the tourist he was guiding. A young fellow from India who was going to school in the USA. They caught up and another fire was built (by Tanner this time) while everyone sat around and talked.





Some of the trail we followed I think was made for goats only!! Notice the guide has my camera bag. I think he was afraid that old fellow might just fall off the cliff so I'll save his pictures!!!

Don't look down Grandpa..
The end of our back trail adventure. Time for a spot of tea.

 The temple at the top of the 800 stair climb.
The Bedouins main source of transporting water and supplies up to the top.
Brian must have just paid our guide telling from the smile. He really was a great guide. Very hospitable.
Some of the sights along our hike down the steps to valley floor.





 Roman influence with tiled street.
Tanner decided riding was the way to go.


This fellow was sure those old folks would like to ride his camels.
 My favorite picture. The patience of these little donkeys was something else. Whenever their rider dismounted they just stood there.
The Treasury. Probably the most known of the monuments since it was in such films as Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade, Eye of The Tiger, and Arabian Nights.


Brian posing with guard
 The desert nomads
Make a fine Bedouin camel driver.

The name of the passage way into the Treasury.

Looking back out of the SIQ towards the Treasury.


 

 Another mode of transportation through the SIQ to the main Park entrance.


Looking up out of the SIQ.

And so Sunday afternoon we headed back to Madaba for our final day of touring Jordan on Monday.
Monday we met with the Pastors of the Seventh-day Adventist church in Amman and they treated us to a lunch of schwarma, a sandwich they say everyone must try when in Jordan. It was very good but very filling as well. Fran and I could have shared one and still been full.

After lunch we visited this Greek Orthodox church famous for it's mosaic map used to train the Priests when the were assigned to this region.



Many mosaic pieces hang on the walls of the church

This is what remains of the mosaic map that was on the floor of the church.
Our last place to visit was the archaeological dig site near Madaba, Jordan





Brian has spent 4 summers working with this site and has met and made friends with a young Jordanian named Mohammed. Our last night in Jordan we had the privilege to meet all 5 brothers of Mohammed around a bonfire in their back yard. The ladies met with some of his sisters and sister-in-laws.
 At 8:00 AM Tuesday (Amman time) we took off for Beirut Lebanon and landed at 8:00 AM Lebanon time.


The flag of Lebanon with the Cedar of Lebanon in center.
Lori and Brian's little Suzuki swift. Amazing how it handled the 5 of us for the week of sightseeing.


The Lebanese pound note and 1500 pounds is equivalent to $1.00 USD. So if a chocolate bar is listed as costing 3000 pounds it is about $2.00 USD.

Tazo was very happy to see Tanner after being home alone for about a week.


Lori and Brian have an apartment on the third floor with a balcony that runs the full length of the apartment. Each room has french doors that open onto the balcony and shutters that can be closed to shut out noise and light.
Although we spent most of our time in and around Beirut I thought you might like to see where Lebanon is located. It's neighbor to the East, Syria is very much in the news and some of the violence does cross into Lebanon. During our stay we never once felt in danger, in fact I think I felt more at ease in Beirut than I did driving across some sections of Chicago.
A map of Beirut showing the location of Middle East University as a small black square with arrow. Lori and Brian live about 5 minutes from there. Some of the sights we visited were the mountain region, shore of the Mediterranean Sea,  Statue of Virgin Mary in Harissa, Lebanon, and many samplings of Lebanese foods. And of course a great Christmas celebration with family.
Even though Wednesday was a rainy day we got to walk along the Mediterranean Sea. This formation is called Pigeon rock.
Along the shore are many modern hotels and business buildings being constructed following the civil war that had destroyed much of this region.

Grandma had to put her hands in the Mediterranean water. It was cool.
Wednesday was Tanners birthday and he got to pick the restaurant to celebrate. We ate at the Chop sticks, a Chinese food that is quite different from what we have in the USA.


 Celebrating Tanner's 13th birthday at Chop Sticks


Great egg rolls 

Three different types of sauce. Sweet and Sour was best.
 So Lori has another Teenager. WOW!!

Tanner got two budgie birds for his birthday.
Another restaurant that we ate at. Going to have to get Brian to tell me what it was we ate but I do remember it was delicious.

Sunday we had a very busy day. Started with a drive up into the mountains to visit a restaurant for brunch. Then down to the tram that takes you up to the statue of Virgin Mary. 
 The mountain cafe.
The view from the cafe. Bet you thought the Mediterranean coast was all sand and warm weather eh?

They brought each of us a bowl of several types of beans.
 Some flat bread with melted cheese inside. Some tomatoes and lots of plain flat bread.
Olive oil to pour over beans
Onions to chop up and add to tomatoes, olive oil and beans. It was very yummy. Could go back there anytime I visit Lebanon.
The owners are very artistic and made this bar so it looked like one massive tree trunk. It was covered with a thick epoxy and has peacock feathere painted into it.

We drove as close to the mountains as we could since road was still under construction.
Tanner joked that these two guys heard the weather forecast was for snow so they are just going to sit there and wait for it. I didn't expect to see these Arctic cats  in the Mediterranean.
 Our next stop was Harissa just South of downtown Beirut. You ride this gondola to the top where another rail car takes you the rest of way up to the Statue of Virgin Mary.

 The gondola passes quite close to apartment buildings so you can look right in the windows of someones apartment.
 The last leg of the climb is in this rail car. At least you are level all the way up.
Many people climb to base of statue kissing the stones as they climb or just stopping and praying.

Some of the view from the top.


If you enlarge this picture you can see a dark circle in about the middle of the bay. Local folklore is that this is the spot where the great fish spewed Jonah from it's mouth and this is the beach he climbed out onto.
The view from the top was spectacular.
 On way home we stopped off at the blue mosque (Mohammad Al-Amin).
 Looking up to ceiling.
 Some of the local Islamic ladies!!!! They make the visitors (Ladies only) put these robes on before entering and everyone has to remove their shoes.
There is a temporary memorial setup next to the mosque to commemorate the deaths of Brig. General Wissam Al-Hassan and 8 of his party by car bomb.

Our last taste of Lebanese food. On Monday we were treated to falafels and fruit cocktails.

 The falafel was very tasty but I wasn't sold on the cheese they put on top of the fruit cocktail. Can't win them all.
 Christmas eve Nana (Brian's mom) and Cheyenne arrived so we had a great Christmas dinner.

 Everyone got lots of gifts but I'll share three with you. Lori got a canary. This kind of continues the McMullen side of family as my mother had a canary that sat on top of the fridge for a lot of my childhood years.
 Brian was really surprised by this antique pot. He had seen it in Amman Jordan while we were shopping and had spent quite alot of time talking to shopkeeper about it. He decided not to buy it but while he was looking in an art store Lori bought it and we sneaked it to the car. It took lots of tricky manuevering to get it to the point of under the Christmas tree but she made it.
 Tanner knit a scarf for his sister and was still working on it Christmas eve. He hid out in Grandma and Grandpa's bedroom while he completed it.
Cheyenne was very happy with it and her brother got a big hug.
 

 Christmas day Brian and Lori invited those dorm students who didn't make it home, over for an evening meal and treats. And there were lots of treats.


The students got to decorate their own cookies and there were some really cool cookies produced.



The family that spent Christmas 2012 in Beirut, Lebanon.
Thank you Lori and Brian for working it out so we could be together.
On Wednesday, December 26th we took off for home leaving the lovely country of Lebanon behind but taking with us memories that will last our lifetime.